Creative Technology: Film Application

What types of self-adhesive film are there?

1. Monomeric PVC films are manufactured from plastic blocks which are rolled or calendered in a calender until they reach the desired film thickness; this is usually 60–90 ym.  As monomeric, calendered PVC films consist of uncross-linked molecular chains, they have only a moderate lifespan of around 3 years when exposed to UV light and tend to be inflexible when applied to difficult or uneven substrates.
2. In contrast,polymeric, calendered PVC films consist of long-chain, cross-linked and branched molecular chains – the polymers. This improved molecular structure results in an extended service life of 5–7 years, as well as greater flexibility of the film when applied to uneven surfaces.
3. Polymeric cast PVC films – also known as cast films – are not rolled, but are cast directly from liquid plastic onto the silicone paper or adhesive in a highly complex process. However, the thickness of the film does not change during this process; it is manufactured from the outset to its final thickness of approximately 60 ym. Cast films have no shape memory – i.e. unlike calendered films, they do not shrink and can be bonded exceptionally well to curved or contoured surfaces. They have a service life of around 10 years, and when exposed to heat, cast films can be used without any problems, for example, for full-wrap applications on cars.

How do I apply self-adhesive films?

1. Applying large areas of uncut self-adhesive film to flat surfaces such as glass, windows or cupboard doors. All you need is a ruler, a pencil and a scalpel or a sharp knife.
2. Applying lettering, logos, patterns or ornaments – known as ‘plots’ – which have previously been cut out of the film using a cutting plotter.

I have created a design using a cutting plotter. What do I need to bear in mind when applying it?

How does dry bonding work?

1. First, a transfer film is applied to the plot, which has already been weeded, and pressed down firmly using a pressure roller. The transfer film should extend slightly beyond the silicone paper on all sides.
2. After thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the surface, the plot is precisely aligned and secured to the surface using the overhanging transfer film, as well as masking tape at the top and, if necessary, on one side.
3. Next, lift the sticker and carefully peel off the silicone paper from underneath.
4. The plot, which is now fully adhered to the transfer film, is then smoothed evenly onto the substrate from top to bottom together with the film. Sufficient pressure should be applied to prevent bubbles from forming.
5. Tip: for very long lettering, it is best to split the silicone paper or the plot so that the plot can be applied in individual segments. If you cut the silicone paper towards the edge where the plot is secured to the surface with masking tape or the overhanging silicone paper, there is no need to realign the sticker.
6. Now carefully peel the transfer film away from the plot and pull it off towards one side. Any bubbles should be pricked at the side and smoothed out using the back of your fingernail or a squeegee.

How does wet bonding work?

1. First, as with dry lamination, a transfer material is applied to the plot with the excess film already removed and pressed down firmly using a pressure roller. For wet lamination, it is best to use transfer paper; this should extend slightly beyond the silicone paper on all sides.
2. After thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the surface, it is sprayed with a mixture of washing-up liquid – add approx. 1 tsp of washing-up liquid to 1 litre of water.
3. Now remove the silicone paper completely from the plot and, at the same time, moisten the transfer paper with the soapy water.
4. The plot is then positioned loosely on the substrate and the water is squeegee’d away in a star pattern towards the edges.
5. Tip: To speed up evaporation, simply heat and dry the used transfer paper with a hairdryer after scraping.
6. Once the plot has dried completely (note: this can take up to 24 hours!), the transfer paper can be peeled off.
7. Give it a final clean with some glass cleaner – and you’re done.

Can I apply stickers to three-dimensional objects as well?

1. First, the surface is thoroughly cleaned, degreased and, if necessary, any silicone is removed.
2. Next, the cast film is cut generously to the final size to be applied.
3. Using a hot-air gun, heat both the surface and the film on its backing; then peel off the silicone paper and place the film onto the surface to be covered.
4. By continuing to heat the film on the surface and by pulling and pressing it down with a felt squeegee, the film can now be applied precisely to any shape.
5. Finally, the seams and edges are heat-treated with the hot air gun, and any bubbles that may have formed are pricked and removed.
6. Finish by cleaning with a glass cleaner – and you’re done.